Sumba's attractions are rooted in culture and landscape. The island's megalithic tombs — stone slabs the size of dining tables, raised to honour nobles and chiefs — are found in living villages, not ruins. The Pasola festival transforms the western highlands into a battlefield of horsemen. Ikat weavers across the island produce cloth of international quality. And for those who come for the sea, the waves off the southwest coast are as good as any in Indonesia.