Sumba ikat is among the finest hand-woven cloth in the world. East Sumba is the epicentre: the villages of Prailiu and Pau outside Waingapu, and the workshops of Kambera district, produce cloth with dense geometric and figurative motifs — horses, deer, skulls, and ancestor figures — dyed with natural indigo and mengkudu (morinda root red). A single large hinggi (man's cloth) can take months to make; the best pieces fetch hundreds of dollars and end up in museum collections and the wardrobes of serious collectors.
When buying, distinguish between old ikat (antique pieces) and new ikat. Both have value; old pieces command higher prices and are subject to export restrictions. Ask the weaver or seller directly about the age and dye method. Chemical dyes are faster but less subtle; natural-dyed cloth has a depth of colour that improves with age.
The Pasar Inpres market in Waingapu has a section for ikat where you can browse and compare. For a more direct experience, visit the weaving cooperatives in Prailiu — you can watch the process and buy directly from the weavers.
In the west, the market in Waikabubak sells cloth, basara (betel accessories), and small carvings. Prices here tend to be lower but selection more variable.