Akita is the main city on the Sea of Japan side of northern Tohoku, a practical rail hub with a more interesting centre than many travellers expect. Around Senshu Park, the old Kubota Castle grounds give the city a green heart, while the museums and galleries nearby make it easy to spend a full day without rushing.
The city is at its best in early August, when the Kanto Festival fills the streets with long bamboo poles hung with lanterns. Outside festival week, Akita is quieter: good for art, castle ruins, sake, and a first taste of a region that feels far from the Tokyo-Kyoto circuit.