The Filipino Market at the waterfront is the most atmospheric place to eat in Kota Kinabalu. During the day the stalls sell fresh seafood, fruit, and handicrafts. In the evening the adjacent open-air restaurants fire up their grills and the routine is simple: choose your fish, prawns, or crab from the display, agree on a price, and the kitchen cooks it to order — steamed, grilled, or in a black pepper sauce.
The tables fill with a mix of locals and travelers, and the setting — sea breeze, boats rocking at anchor, the distant silhouette of the islands — is as good as the food. Prices are reasonable; bargaining politely is expected. Arrive before 7pm for the best selection.