Located halfway between Muscat and the border with the Emirates, Ibri is an old caravan town in the Ad Dhahirah region that most travellers drive through without stopping. That is a mistake. The town has a restored Ibri Fort, a lively souq that still caters to locals rather than tourists, and a genuine small-town Omani atmosphere that the more polished destinations along the coast have lost.
The main reason to base yourself here is the Bat Tombs, a UNESCO World Heritage Site about 25 kilometres east of town. Dating to the 3rd millennium BC, these beehive-shaped stone burial chambers are among the best-preserved Bronze Age necropolis sites in the Arabian Peninsula. The site is unfenced and unattended — you simply drive up and walk among the tombs, which is both wonderful and a reminder of how little-visited this part of Oman remains.
From Ibri, the dramatic mountain scenery of Jebel Shams and the so-called Grand Canyon of Oman is within reach to the east. The drive through Wadi Ghul to the canyon rim is spectacular, and the Balcony Walk trail along the cliff edge is one of the best short hikes in the country. To the south, the landscape flattens into the Rub al Khali (Empty Quarter), and the transition from irrigated date gardens to open desert happens remarkably quickly.
The souq is busiest in the morning and is a good place to buy Omani dates, halwa (the local sweet), and frankincense. The town has a few simple restaurants serving Omani and Indian food, and there are fuel stations for onward travel in any direction.