Chitral's bazaar runs along the main street for several hundred metres east of the Shahi Mosque. There is no architectural drama — single-storey shops, jeeps double-parked, men in the rolled-felt pakol caps for which the region is famous — but it is the practical heart of the town. You can buy a pakol (worth doing), pattu woollen blankets, walnut-wood carvings, dried mulberries and apricots, and the surprisingly good local cheese.
Money changers operate around the central junction. Stock up on cash here; the Kalash valleys have no banks and very little phone signal.