Namak Mandi — the "Salt Market" — is a street in the old city that has evolved into the definitive destination for chapli kebab. A row of open-fronted restaurants run charcoal fires from noon until late, frying wide flat patties of minced beef or mutton mixed with pomegranate seeds, coriander, and chilli. The kebabs are served on naan with raw onion and chutney.
The kebabs here are bigger and better than anything called by the same name elsewhere in Pakistan. Come hungry: a single chapli kebab can be the size of a small plate. Pair with a glass of sweetened doodh pati (milky tea) from a nearby stall. Most restaurants have no menu and no set price — you order by the piece, and the total is modest.