Philippine island province of cattle ranches, rolling pastures, and long empty beaches in Bicol.
Masbate is one of the least-visited provinces in the Philippines — an island group in the Bicol region, at the centre of the Philippine archipelago, made up of three main islands (Masbate itself, Ticao, and Burias) and a number of smaller islets. It is the country's cattle-ranching capital, a quiet, sparsely populated place of rolling pastures and long empty beaches, and a place most Filipino travellers know about but hardly anyone actually goes to. That, of course, is the main reason to visit.
Masbate's two best-known attractions reflect its unusual character. The annual Rodeo Masbateño — held every April in Masbate City — is the largest rodeo in the Philippines, a genuine cattle-country event with bronc riding, bull wrestling, and lasso competitions, and is the closest thing the country has to an American western. And Ticao Island, off the north-east coast, has become a serious destination for divers in search of manta rays: the shallow reefs around Ticao Pass attract large populations of mantas that come in to feed on plankton. The waters are also known for whale sharks (seasonal, mostly March–June) and some of the less-disturbed coral reefs in the country.
Otherwise, Masbate is a place for quiet beaches, fishing villages, and long empty drives along the coast. Buntod Sandbar near the capital is a strip of white sand that appears at low tide, surrounded by a marine sanctuary with decent snorkelling. Getting there takes some effort — small planes fly from Manila to Masbate City, and there are ferries from Bulan in Sorsogon — but the reward is a corner of the Philippines that still feels untouched by mass tourism.
Guide
Getting There
Getting to Masbate takes some effort, which is largely why it remains so undiscovered. There are two main options: fly or take a ferry.
By air: Cebu Pacific operates flights between Manila (Ninoy Aquino) and Moises R. Espinosa Airport (MBT) in Masbate City several times a week. The flight takes about an hour. Seat availability and schedules change seasonally, so book in advance and check for updates close to your departure.
By ferry: Several ferry companies serve Masbate from different points on Luzon and the Visayas. Ferries from Pilar or Bulan in Sorsogon province reach Masbate City in three to four hours. From Manila, overnight ferries sail to Masbate City; the journey takes around 12 hours. 2Go Travel and other operators run regular services. The ferry is slower but a genuine experience, giving you views of the island-dotted sea of the central Philippines.
Getting around Masbate: Within the island, jeepneys and tricycles connect the main towns. Renting a motorbike is the most flexible option for exploring the coast and reaching beaches that are off the main routes.
Guide
When to Go
Masbate's climate follows the typical Philippine pattern, with a wet season from June to October brought by the southwest monsoon, and a drier period from November through May.
November to May is the best time to visit for most purposes. The seas are calmer, beaches are accessible, and diving conditions are at their best. Manta ray sightings peak from November through March at Ticao Pass; whale sharks are most reliable from March to June.
April is the month to visit if you want the Rodeo Masbateño, held during the provincial fiesta. Book accommodation well ahead — this is when Masbate fills up.
June to October: The wet season brings heavy rain and rougher seas, particularly around the Sibuyan Sea. Diving at Ticao can be limited by conditions. On the upside, this is when the island is greenest and most lush, and you will have most places largely to yourself.
Typhoons occasionally pass through or near Masbate, particularly between August and October. Check weather forecasts before travelling during this period.