Just east of Fort Pilar, the wooden Muslim quarter of Rio Hondo is built out over the tidal flats on stilts, a maze of plank walkways linking houses, small mosques, and shops that hover a metre above the water. It is one of the most photographed corners of Zamboanga and a glimpse of a traditional Sama-Bajau community living in the centre of a city of a million.
Rio Hondo is best viewed from the bridge on Pilar Street or from the Paseo del Mar — wandering deep into the village is not recommended for casual visitors. If you want a closer look, go with a local guide arranged through the tourism office at the Paseo. The mosques and the lines of fishing boats are striking, especially in the morning light.