Highlights

Sigiriya

A 5th-century palace-fortress built on top of a sheer granite monolith rising 200 metres from the flat jungle. The climb is part obstacle course, part art gallery — halfway up you pass a gallery of vivid frescoes of celestial maidens, and near the top there are the famous mirror-polished walls and the lion's paw terrace. The view from the summit across the forested plain is extraordinary. Go early to beat both the heat and the crowds. Nearby Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa complete what travelers call the Cultural Triangle.

The Kandy–Ella train

The railway line through the hill country from Kandy to Ella is one of the most celebrated train journeys in Asia, and it earns the reputation. For six or seven hours you roll through tea estates draped over steep hillsides, past waterfalls and tunnels, through stations where vendors sell snacks and vendors argue prices. Sit on the right side going from Kandy to Ella, lean out the open door if you dare, and arrive in Ella dishevelled and delighted.

Yala National Park

Sri Lanka's most visited national park, in the dry southeast near Tissamaharama, has the highest density of leopards of any protected area in the world. Morning jeep safaris regularly turn up elephants, sloth bears, crocodiles, and if you are lucky, a leopard draped in a tree. The park can get crowded with jeeps at peak season; going at the start of the season (October–November) or very early in the morning improves the experience.

Galle Fort

The walled fort at Galle, built by the Portuguese and extended by the Dutch in the 17th century, is a living town of narrow streets, colonial buildings, cafes, and craft shops. It is one of the best-preserved colonial fortifications in Asia and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Walk the ramparts at sunset, eat well, and use it as a base for the south coast beaches.

The south coast beaches

From Hikkaduwa to Tangalle, the southwest coast has some of the best beaches in South Asia. Mirissa is where whale-watching boats set out from November to April — blue whales are regularly sighted offshore. Unawatuna is sheltered and calm. Arugam Bay on the east coast is the surf destination, with a genuine local scene and consistent waves from May to September.

The Temple of the Tooth, Kandy

The Dalada Maligawa — Temple of the Tooth Relic — is Sri Lanka's most sacred Buddhist site, said to house a tooth of the Buddha brought to the island in the 4th century. The evening puja (offering ceremony) is open to visitors and atmospheric even if you arrive uncertain about the religious context. Kandy itself is a pleasant city on a lake in the hills, worth a couple of days for the temple, the national museum, and the Royal Botanic Gardens at nearby Peradeniya.

Tea country

The central highlands around Nuwara Eliya and Ella produce some of the world's finest tea. Several estates welcome visitors for tours and tastings. The landscape itself — vivid green terraces on misty hillsides, Tamil women in bright saris picking leaves — is as striking as anything else on the island. Ella in particular has turned into a hub for hikers, with the walk to Little Adam's Peak and along the famous Nine Arches Bridge easily manageable as half-day outings.