A-Mei Tea House occupies a terraced building at the top of the old stone steps in Jiufen, its red lanterns strung across multiple levels and its balconies hanging over the hillside. At dusk, when the lanterns are lit and mist comes in off the Pacific, it looks like something from a film set — which is, in various ways, exactly what it is.
The tea service is traditional Taiwanese gongfu cha — a multi-step ritual using a small clay pot and tiny cups. Prices are higher than the coffee shops in central Taipei, but the experience of sitting on the lantern-lit terrace with a pot of high mountain oolong and views down to the coast justifies the cost. Go between 4 and 6pm to catch the lanterns lighting up before the evening crowds. Reservations are recommended for window seats on weekends.