Jiufen rewards wandering. The main attractions — the old street, the teahouses, the views — are concentrated in a small area, but the lanes running off the main steps lead to residential neighbourhoods where the tourist density drops sharply. Go up, not just along: the highest lanes of the town, above the main teahouse area, have city and sea views and almost no crowds. The Gold Museum in Jinguashi is the destination for anyone interested in the mining history that created the town.