Nakhon Si Thammarat is one of southern Thailand's great old cities, though it does not shout for attention like the beach towns around it. It was once the centre of the Kingdom of Ligor, and the long, straight roads of the modern city still run past temples, fragments of wall, markets, and old ritual sites.
The essential stop is Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan, one of the south's most important Buddhist temples. The white chedi, smaller stupas, galleries, and stream of worshippers give the city a spiritual centre that is far stronger than its provincial-capital first impression.
Nakhon also has a cultural identity of its own. The Suchart Subsin Shadow Puppet House keeps the southern nang talung tradition alive, while the National Museum and the city wall fill in the older layers. It is worth a spare day if you are already moving through the Gulf side of southern Thailand.