The riverside promenade that runs through the centre of Nong Khai is one of the most pleasant stretches of Mekong waterfront in Thailand. The path follows the river for several kilometres past temples, old wooden shophouses, guesthouses and restaurants, with Laos visible just across the water — close enough to see people on the far bank but far enough to feel like a proper border.
Sunset here is genuinely beautiful: the sky turns orange and red over the river, the twin Naga statues catch the last light, and the restaurants along the water fill up with both Thai families and travellers settling in for an evening beer. Come early morning as well — the river is misty, monks make their alms rounds through the streets, and the pace is perfect.