Eating Out

Pamukkale village, at the foot of the travertines, has a string of family-run restaurants on Mehmet Akif Ersoy and the streets around it. Most serve a similar menu of Turkish standards — gözleme, manti, kebabs, mezes — at prices well below what the equivalent meal would cost on the coast. The food is rarely outstanding but is honest, the portions are large, and many guesthouses include a Turkish breakfast that will keep you going through the morning's walking.

For something more substantial, head into Denizli, twenty kilometres south, where the city has both fancier modern restaurants and the local specialty of tandoor-baked lamb.