The Khorezm desert north and east of Khiva contains some of the most evocative ruins in Central Asia: a string of fortresses (kalas) abandoned in the wake of the Mongol invasion and now standing as melted-looking mud-brick walls in the empty steppe. Toprak Kala, Ayaz Kala, and Kyzyl Kala are the easiest to visit by hired car or guided tour — figure on a full day to cover three of them.
Urgench, 35 km away, has little to detain visitors but is the regional capital and transit hub. The Karakum desert south of Khiva is the gateway for longer expeditions to the Aral Sea, several days by 4x4 — best arranged through a Khiva guesthouse.