St Kilda was Melbourne's seaside pleasure ground for much of the twentieth century, fell into disrepute in the 1970s and 80s, then gentrified sharply in the 1990s without entirely losing its edge. The result is a suburb that mixes excellent restaurants and beach bars with tattooed locals and a lingering bohemian character. Acland Street is famous for its Central European cake shops — an echo of the Jewish community that settled here in the mid-twentieth century. The beachfront Esplanade has been doing Sunday markets for decades.
The beach itself is best for walking and watching rather than serious swimming, but St Kilda Pier is a reliable spot to see little penguins coming ashore at dusk. Luna Park, the heritage-listed amusement park with its grinning clown entrance, sits just back from the waterfront and is one of Melbourne's most recognisable landmarks. The Palais Theatre and Prince of Wales Hotel host major touring acts.