Dive Rainbow Reef, Taveuni The Somosomo Strait between Taveuni and Vanua Levu is home to Rainbow Reef and the Great White Wall — a dive site where a wall of white soft coral drops into deep blue water. It's among the best soft coral diving in the world, and the currents that make it challenging are also what keep the reefs so healthy. If you're a diver, this is a reason in itself to come to Fiji.
Island-hop the Yasawas The Yasawa Islands stretch north of Viti Levu in a chain of volcanic peaks and white beaches. A fast catamaran from Port Denarau connects a string of budget resorts and traditional villages. The Blue Lagoon, made famous by the 1980 film, is here — and it does look like that. Manta rays congregate around the southern islands, particularly between May and October.
Spend a day in Suva's market Suva is an underrated Pacific capital. The Municipal Market is one of the best in the region — piled with tropical produce, fresh fish, dalo root, and fiery Indian condiments. The Fiji Museum, set in the graceful colonial gardens of Thurston Gardens, has a canoe that belonged to the cannibal chief Ratu Udre Udre, who reportedly ate 872 people and kept a stone for each one. Worth a couple of hours.
Visit Levuka, Fiji's first capital Levuka on Ovalau is a time-warped colonial town, Fiji's original capital before the seat of government moved to Suva in 1882. The main street has wooden shopfronts that look much as they did in the 1880s, and the town is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Getting there — by ferry and a short drive — keeps the crowds away.
Experience a village kava ceremony Kava (yaqona) ceremonies are central to Fijian social life, not a tourist performance. If you are invited to participate in one — or arrange one through a reputable tour — take it seriously. Bring a bundle of kava root as your sevusevu, dress modestly, sit cross-legged, and follow the host's lead. It's one of the more genuine cultural encounters available in the Pacific.