Cape Kidnappers, about 30 km south of Napier, is home to one of the world's largest mainland gannet colonies — up to 20,000 birds nesting on the dramatic headland cliffs and flat terraces between November and February. During breeding season the noise, the smell, and the sheer density of birds packed onto every available surface is extraordinary.
Getting there is part of the experience. The most popular route is by tractor-trailer along the beach at low tide — a journey that feels slightly absurd and works perfectly. You can also walk along the beach (about 5 km each way, tide-dependent) or take a guided walk over the farmland above the cliffs. Book in advance in season.