The Stegerbräu has stood on the Stadtplatz since the seventeenth century and still brews its own beer in a small attached brewery — one of the smallest in Austria. The dining room is comfortable rather than rustic; the kitchen does straight Pongau cooking with reliable execution.
Look for the Wiener Schnitzel, the Bauernschmaus (a mixed plate of roast pork, sausage, dumpling, and sauerkraut), and the local Stegerbräu beer in unfiltered and dark versions. Reservations advisable in ski season. Rooms upstairs if you decide to stay; the location does not get more central.