The fifteenth-century Multani caravanserai inside the Old City has been turned into a courtyard restaurant and cafe — high arched brickwork, low tables, slow service, and a remarkable atmosphere after dark when the lanterns come on. For an afternoon pot of tea with the city's signature pastries (badambura with almonds, shakerbura with walnuts), there is nowhere better.
It is a tourist place, deliberately picturesque, and prices are higher than at a regular Baku cafe. But the building is genuinely beautiful and a few hours spent there are time well used. The neighbouring Bukhara caravanserai operates on the same lines and is equally worth a stop.