A handful of restaurants and brasseries cluster around the Grote Markt and the streets near the town centre, serving the full range of Belgian standards. Stoemp, waterzooi, carbonnade flamande — the slow-braised beef stew cooked in Belgian ale — and always excellent frites. These are filling, no-nonsense places suited to a lunch stop between cycling legs. Flemish beers are on tap: Jupiler for the mainstream, Leffe or a regional abbey ale if you want something with more character. Nothing here will surprise you, but everything will be decent and the portions are generous.