The old town of Plovdiv — Staria Grad — climbs the three hills that gave the ancient city its Roman name of Trimontium. The streets are steep, paved with large rounded cobblestones, and flanked by the overhanging upper floors of Bulgarian National Revival houses: two-storey wooden-framed buildings in deep indigo, ochre, and terracotta, with carved wooden ceilings inside and long views across the plain from the balconies.
It's a real neighbourhood — restaurants, galleries, and house-museums mingle with actual residents. The Ethnographic Museum (in the Koiumdjioglu House), the Historical Museum, the house-museums of several 19th-century merchants and intellectuals, and a concentration of small restaurants and cafes make it the primary focus for any visit to Plovdiv. The lower slopes connect directly to the Kapana quarter to the west.