Rijeka's food scene reflects its port-city geography: Adriatic seafood dominates, but the Austro-Hungarian and Italian influences show up in the pasta dishes, the coffee culture, and the way people eat — slowly, in company, with wine. The Korzo and the streets around the covered market (Tržnica) are the best hunting ground.
Black risotto (crni rižot) made with cuttlefish ink is the regional dish worth seeking out, along with brudet (fish stew with polenta) and fritaja — the Istrian scrambled egg dish cooked with local herbs or seasonal truffles. Several good konobas within walking distance of the waterfront serve traditional menus at reasonable prices.