Cica

Tiny rakija bar on Tkalčićeva with seventy varieties

A single-room bar on Tkalčićeva specialising in rakija — the fruit brandy that is the standard Croatian aperitif and digestif. The shelves hold around seventy bottles, from the standard šljivovica (plum) and travarica (herb) to the more obscure: walnut, fig, rose, blueberry, even bay leaf. The staff will steer you through small tasters before you commit.

The room holds about ten people standing at the bar; on warm evenings the crowd spills onto the cobbles outside. It is open late — frequently the last place to close on the street — and is a serious bar for serious drinking; the prices for the small glasses are modest.

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