☰Žižkov

Žižkov is Prague's scruffiest and most characterful neighborhood — a proudly bohemian quarter that once held the highest density of pubs per capita in the city. The skyline is punctuated by the Žižkov Television Tower, a brutalist tripod studded with crawling baby sculptures by artist David Černý, which also houses a one-room hotel and an observation deck. On Vítkov Hill, the colossal equestrian statue of Hussite commander Jan Žižka — one of the largest bronze equestrian statues in the world — guards a monumental hall that tells Czech history through changing exhibitions. Below, the streets are lined with no-frills dive bars, vintage shops, and neighborhood pubs where a half-liter of beer still costs less than a coffee in the Old Town. Žižkov has gentrified somewhat but retains a rough edge that keeps it authentic. If you want to drink with locals and avoid anyone carrying a selfie stick, this is your neighborhood.