Estonian cooking is rooted in the seasons and the land: rye bread, pork, potatoes, dairy, fish, and foraged ingredients. It's not flashy food, but it's honest and — in good hands — excellent. The restaurant scene in Tallinn has improved dramatically in the past decade, and there are now serious farm-to-table restaurants, a craft beer culture, and a genuine interest in reviving and reinventing traditional flavours.
Things to eat
Rye bread (leib) is the foundation of Estonian food. Dense, slightly sour, and served with almost every meal. Don't leave without eating it.
Verivorst (blood sausage) is Estonia's national dish — served with sauerkraut and lingonberry jam, usually at Christmas but available year-round in good restaurants.
Mulgipuder — mashed potatoes with pearl barley and pork fat — is simple comfort food done well.
Rosolje is a vivid beetroot and herring salad, creamy and sweet-sour, a staple at celebrations.
Kiluvõileib — an open sandwich topped with spiced Baltic sprats and a slice of boiled egg — is everywhere in Tallinn and makes a quick cheap lunch.
Kama is a toasted flour mixture (rye, barley, oat, peas) stirred into kefir or yoghurt. It's an acquired taste that Estonians eat enthusiastically and most visitors approach with caution. Worth trying once.
Fish
The Baltic herring (räim) is the national fish. Look for smoked, marinated, and pan-fried versions. In Tallinn's Kalamaja neighbourhood and at the central market, fishmongers sell excellent smoked fish.
Drink
The local beer scene has grown considerably. A. Le Coq and Saku are the main lagers; increasingly, craft breweries are making interesting ales and IPAs. Vana Tallinn is a sweet herby liqueur — tooth-achingly sweet on its own, better in coffee. Kefir and various fermented dairy drinks are popular nonalcoholic options.
Where to eat
In Tallinn, the Old Town has plenty of tourist-trap restaurants with medieval theme nights; avoid these and head to Kalamaja, Telliskivi, or Kadriorg for better food at lower prices. Tartu has a surprisingly good restaurant scene for a city its size.