Ruhnu is Estonia's most remote inhabited island, a tiny speck in the Gulf of Riga closer to Latvia than to the Estonian mainland. About sixty people live here year-round, and the island has the unhurried feel of a place that time has not quite reached.
The main attraction is the Church of Saint Magdalene, built in 1644 and one of the oldest surviving wooden buildings in Estonia. Nearby stands a newer stone church from 1912, and between the two you get a sense of the island's long, quiet history — including the 1944 mass evacuation of the entire Swedish-speaking population who had lived here for centuries. The curious chocolate bear statue in the village centre commemorates a shipment of cocoa that once washed ashore — one of those small island stories that makes a visit memorable. The Ruhnu Lighthouse, a cast-iron tower from 1877 at the island's southeastern tip, is a half-hour walk through the forest.
Ruhnu is reached by small aircraft from Pärnu or by boat in summer. There is one guesthouse and not much else in the way of services — bring what you need and enjoy the silence.