Uspenski Cathedral

Red-brick Russian Orthodox cathedral on Katajanokka, the largest in Western Europe

The red-brick Russian Orthodox cathedral on Katajanokka, immediately east of the central harbour. Built between 1862 and 1868 to a design by Aleksey Gornostayev, with thirteen golden onion domes representing Christ and the twelve apostles. The interior — gilded iconostasis, frescoes, the smell of beeswax candles — feels worlds away from the white Lutheran restraint over on Senate Square.

Free to enter outside service hours. Combine with a walk along the Katajanokka shore, where ice-breakers moor in winter, and the art nouveau apartment buildings of the Katajanokka district.

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A story
Built in 1868, when Finland was a Russian grand duchy, Uspenski was a deliberate counterweight to the Lutheran cathedral on Senate Square — a literal reminder of Russian power on the high ground above the harbour. It remains the largest Orthodox church in Western Europe.