Champ de Mars

The Champ de Mars is Valence's main public park and esplanade, a long green terrace overlooking the Rhône on the western edge of the old town. The view from here across the river to the Ardèche hills and the ruins of Château de Crussol is one of the best panoramas in the city. On clear days the Vercors massif is visible to the east as well.

The park is pleasant rather than remarkable — the usual French formality of gravel paths and clipped trees. But it serves as the natural end point of a walk through the old town, and the riverside position gives it a spaciousness that the narrow streets of the centre lack. There are benches, a kiosk, and at weekends a small market sometimes sets up nearby. The walk along the Rhône embankment north and south of the park is also agreeable.

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A story
The Champ de Mars was the site where Napoleon Bonaparte, then a student at the artillery school, would have drilled as a young cadet. He was at the school in Valence in 1785–86, aged 16, and stayed in the city for several years. A small plaque marks the house where he lodged on the Rue du Croissant. The city does not make as much of this connection as it might — perhaps because Napoleon was not yet Napoleon when he was here, just a homesick Corsican teenager.

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