The food in Saint-Jean-de-Luz is genuinely excellent — fresh Atlantic fish, Basque classics like piperade (eggs with peppers and tomatoes) and axoa (spiced veal with Espelette pepper), and patisseries making gâteau Basque, the almond-cream filled pastry that is the region's signature sweet.
Chez Pablo on the harbour quay is one of the best fish restaurants in town — grilled tuna, chipirones (small squid), and merlu koskera (hake in Basque sauce) at honest prices. Grillerie du Port is another solid choice for fresh-off-the-boat fish simply cooked. For Basque country cooking in a more formal setting, Restaurant Ithurria in nearby Ainhoa (20 minutes by car) is considered one of the finest tables in the Basque country.
For patisserie and gâteau Basque specifically, Pâtisserie Maison Adam on Rue Gambetta has been making the cake since 1660 and claims to have invented it — whether or not that's true, it is very good.