Ajaccio sits in the southwest of Corsica and makes a good base for the wilder southern half of the island. Roads are winding and distances take longer to cover than the map suggests — build in extra time.
Filitosa (about 1 hour south) is Corsica's most important prehistoric site: standing menhir-statues carved with faces and swords, some dating to around 1500 BC. The site is small but atmospheric, set among ancient olive trees. Open April to October.
Gulf of Valinco (1 hour south) has the island's best beaches outside of Porto-Vecchio. The town of Propriano at the head of the gulf is a low-key resort with good seafood restaurants.
The Cinarca Valley (45 minutes northeast) holds some of Corsica's most respected vineyards, particularly around Mezzavia and Tiuccia. Several estates are open for tastings without booking.
Gorges du Prunelli (about 45 minutes east) — a dramatic canyon inland from Ajaccio, good for an afternoon drive with swimming in the river gorge.
Corte (about 1.5 hours north) — the symbolic capital of Corsica's independence movement, with a clifftop citadel, a good regional museum, and the start of serious mountain walking.