The Esterel Hills rise west of Fréjus in red volcanic rock, a rougher and wilder contrast to the built-up Riviera coast. Trails, viewpoints, and winding roads run through pines and maquis, with sudden looks down to the Mediterranean.
This is where Fréjus becomes more than Roman ruins and beaches. Go early or late in hot weather, carry water, and check access restrictions in summer when fire risk can close parts of the massif.