Late spring (May–June) and summer (July–August) are the most popular times, when all the mountain trails are open and the weather is reliably warm. The town is busy in August and booking accommodation in advance is worth doing. September is arguably the best month — the crowds thin, the light is golden, and the hiking remains excellent.
Some high-altitude trails only open in June, and the Canigou summit route can be snowed in until late May. Arriving in early May can be frustrating if you have ambitious hiking plans. Winter brings snow to the higher elevations but the village itself stays relatively mild, and the thermal baths are open year-round — a quieter, cheaper time to visit.