Musée Condé

Picture gallery rivalling the Louvre, frozen as the Duke left it

Address Rue du Connétable, 60500 Chantilly
Website www.domainedechantilly.com
Opening Hours Wed–Mon 10:00am–6:00pm; closed Tuesday
Admission Included with château ticket €17

The Musée Condé occupies the interior of the Grand Château and is, by collection size and quality, the second-most important collection of old master paintings in France after the Louvre. It holds around 800 paintings, 2,500 drawings, 3,000 engravings and 40 illuminated manuscripts.

The Sanctuaire room, kept dim to protect light-sensitive works, contains the most famous treasure: Jean Fouquet's Forty Miniatures, painted around 1452 for Étienne Chevalier, and several pages from the Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry, the most celebrated illuminated manuscript of the late Middle Ages. Only a facsimile is on permanent display; the original is too fragile to exhibit.

Other rooms hold Raphael's Three Graces, Piero di Cosimo's Simonetta Vespucci, Watteau's Mezzetin, and major works by Poussin, Delacroix, Ingres, Corot, Reynolds and Gainsborough. The Galerie de Peinture is hung in the dense 19th-century style with paintings stacked on the walls. Allow at least two hours for a serious visit.

things to do museum
A story
Henri d'Orléans, Duke of Aumale, willed the entire collection to the Institut de France in 1884 on the explicit condition that nothing be moved, lent, sold or rearranged. To this day, paintings hang where he placed them — sometimes two or three rows deep on the walls, sometimes obscuring smaller works behind them. Curators have spent over a century working within this constraint, and the result is that the rooms feel less like a museum and more like an aristocrat's drawing room turned to the public.

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