The Musée de Bretagne shares a striking modern building (Les Champs Libres, designed by Christian de Portzamparc) with the science museum and the regional library. It covers the whole of Breton history from the Palaeolithic through to the present, with thoughtful displays on the Breton language, the chouannerie (the royalist counterrevolution), fishing culture, and the Breton independence movement.
The permanent collection is free on the first Sunday of each month. The temporary exhibitions tend to be well-produced and draw on the museum's deep regional collections. If you want to understand what makes Brittany distinct from the rest of France — historically, linguistically, culturally — this is the place to start.