Place des Lices Market

Liveliest market in southern Brittany, held Wednesday and Saturday mornings

The Wednesday and Saturday morning market on the Place des Lices is one of the best reasons to visit Vannes. The large square fills up from early morning with stalls selling Breton produce: oysters from the Gulf of Morbihan, salted butter from the Guérande marshes, farmhouse cheeses, artichokes and tomatoes from local market gardens, Breton cider and far breton (a dense Breton prune tart). There are crêpe stalls, charcuterie sellers, and a flower market.

The market winds down by around one, and by that point the cafés around the square are filling fast. It's worth getting there by nine to see it at its most animated and have the best pick of the produce. The covered market hall on the edge of the square operates daily for meat and dairy.

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A story
The Place des Lices takes its name from the medieval jousting lists that once occupied this open ground inside the city walls. The tradition of holding markets here goes back to the Middle Ages — the Wednesday and Saturday morning gatherings have been a fixture of Vannes life for centuries, and on market days the town feels genuinely alive in a way that the tourist season alone never quite achieves.