Au Passage occupies a narrow passage in the 11th arrondissement and has been a template for the Paris natural wine bar since it opened — a list of small, seasonally-changing plates built around the wine rather than the other way around. The approach is generously informal: you order a bottle, order several dishes as they take your fancy, and see how the evening develops.
The wine list is long, well-priced, and almost entirely natural. The food is inventive without being showy. No reservations; arrive by 7:30pm or expect to wait.