A tiny natural wine bar on Rue Oberkampf that has become a landmark of the Paris scene — always busy, always a little loud, with zinc counter, daily changing dishes chalked on the board, and an excellent rotating selection of wines by the glass. The food (tuna tartare, jambon beurre, seasonal vegetables) is better than it needs to be.
No reservations. Arrive at noon when it opens or be prepared to stand. One of those Parisian places that seems effortlessly right without any visible effort at all.