Dumonet — named by locals after the formidable Josephine who once ran it — is one of the great unreconstructed bistros of the Left Bank, the kind of place that serves portions large enough to intimidate and expects you to take them seriously. The classics are perfect: soufflé Grand Marnier, cassoulet, steak au poivre.
This is old Paris eating at its most unapologetic. The room is formal in the old French way, the sommelier will steer you correctly, and the bill is not cheap — but for a meal that feels like a proper occasion, few restaurants in the city match it. Reserve well ahead.