The Zum Roten Bären sits at the foot of the Schwabentor and claims to be the oldest inn in Germany, with documented service going back to 1387. Whether or not the record is exactly right, the building has been receiving guests for over six centuries, and the cellars are older.
The food is solid Badisch — schäufele, beef rouladen, trout meunière, plenty of game in autumn — served in a panelled dining room that feels every bit its age. The wine list is strong on local Baden producers. It is not cheap and not unfashionable; it is just a good, serious old restaurant doing what it has always done.