The city has more breweries per capita than almost any other in Germany — eleven within the city limits, fifty-something more in the surrounding villages. Beyond Schlenkerla, the Rauchbier classic, try Mahrs Bräu in the Wunderburg district (the U-Bier, an unfiltered lager, is the local cult), Greifenklau by the Altenburg (a hillside garden with views over the city), Spezial-Keller for a second take on smoked beer, and the gardens above the city in summer — Greifenklau-Keller, Wilde Rose Keller, and Spezial-Keller on the Stephansberg form a tight circuit. For coffee, Café Müller on Austraße is the slow morning option; for late-night cocktails, the bars along Sandstraße take over.