Bamberg eats Franconian: smoked pork shoulder (Schäuferla), Bratwurst with horseradish, sour-cooked beef (Sauerbraten), and the long-stemmed local onion stuffed with minced pork (Bamberger Zwiebel). Schlenkerla is the obvious place to start — communal tables, smoky beer, the classic Schäuferla — and Spezial-Keller on the Stephansberg gives you the same food with a hillside beer garden. Klosterbräu, the city's oldest brewery, runs a simpler bierstube down by the river. For something more refined, Eckerts on Untere Sandstraße does seasonal Franconian with a wine list; Pfälzer Stube am Dom on the cathedral square handles Pfalz-style cooking in old vaulted rooms.