Domberg

The Domberg is the long ridge above the Freising old town where the cathedral complex stands, and it deserves to be approached as a destination in its own right, not just as the platform the cathedral happens to sit on. The hill was the seat of Bavarian ecclesiastical power for over a millennium: the bishops of Freising ruled from here before Munich existed, and the buildings accumulated over that time — cathedral, collegiate church, bishop's residence, museum — give the Domberg an atmosphere of compressed history unusual even for a region rich in it.

Walk up from the Marktplatz through the old episcopal quarter, past the late Gothic Benediktuskirche, and you arrive at the cathedral square, which looks north across the Isar floodplain. On clear days you can see the Alps to the south. The evening light here, especially in autumn, is worth the climb by itself. Most of the complex is open daily and admission to the cathedral is free.

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