Zum Goldenen Engel is a traditional Hessian Wirtshaus near the market square, the place to come for regional cooking: Handkäse mit Musik (the pungent local sour-milk cheese served with vinegar-dressed onions — an acquired taste), Frankfurter Würstchen, and the apple-wine-braised pork dishes that define Hessian pub food. The interior is old-fashioned in a good way, with wooden booths and a clientele that mixes students with local regulars.
The apple wine (Ebbelwoi in local dialect) served here comes from the Bergstrasse region to the west — lighter and slightly sweeter than the Frankfurt version, and easy to drink rather more of than you intended.