Wetzlar, in central Hesse, is a city with a remarkably well-preserved Altstadt — an ensemble of half-timbered houses, Baroque facades, and cobbled squares that looks much as it did in the late 18th century. It was here in 1772 that the young Goethe worked as a legal apprentice and fell unhappily in love, an experience that directly inspired The Sorrows of Young Werther.
The old centre is compact enough to explore on foot. The great squares of Buttermarkt, Fischmarkt, Eisenmarkt and Kornmarkt give the Altstadt its character, each named after the trades that once filled them. The Dom dominates the skyline — construction began in 1230 and is famously still unfinished, which gives it an engaging mix of Romanesque, Gothic, and later styles. The interior is harmonious despite this, with 14th-century frescoes and an unusual Pieta from 1380.
Beyond the cathedral, the Lottehaus and the Jerusalemhaus are closely tied to the Goethe story, while the Reichskammergerichtsmuseum tells the history of the imperial court that sat here from 1689 to 1806. A good starting point is the free parking at the Lahninsel, which puts you near the 13th-century Alte Lahnbrücke with views of the Lahn. The tourist information office at Domplatz 8 has detailed maps and walking tour suggestions. An afternoon is enough to see the highlights; a full day lets you go deeper.