Meissen's old town sits below the hilltop castle on the slopes descending toward the Elbe. The Altmarkt (old market square) is the centre, lined with a mix of Gothic and Renaissance burgher houses that survived the Second World War largely intact — a contrast to nearby Dresden, which was almost entirely destroyed. The square is not especially dramatic, but it has a quiet, working-town character that feels genuine rather than reconstructed.
The streets between the Altmarkt and the river contain some attractive townhouses and the occasional art nouveau building. The Heinrichsplatz, a few minutes' walk toward the castle, has the Freiheitsplatz with the Meissen town hall. Worth exploring without any particular destination: the streets are compact and interesting.
The riverfront promenade along the Elbe is worth a walk, particularly at low-water periods when the sandbanks emerge and the riverside wine cellars are busy. Meissen's wine trade is visible here in the steep vineyard terraces that start just north of town and run along the Elbe for several kilometres.