Travemünde is Lübeck's Baltic seaside resort, twenty minutes north on the local S-Bahn at the mouth of the Trave. The town has the standard nineteenth-century Baltic spa apparatus — promenade, kursaal, beach with wicker Strandkörbe (covered beach chairs that you rent by the day) — and a strong working-harbour character thanks to the Scandinavian ferries that dock at the Skandinavienkai.
The four-masted iron sailing barque Passat, built in 1911 and one of the last Cape Horners, is moored in the harbour as a museum ship. The old wooden lighthouse, dated 1539, claims to be the oldest in Germany. A pleasant half-day from the city in summer; a windswept gloom in winter.