The most reliable kitchen in Batsi, set on the harbour beside the fishing boats. Stamatis has been feeding the same mix of locals, returning regulars, and new arrivals for decades. The mezedes are the point: fried courgette balls, taramosalata, grilled aubergine, and whatever the morning's boat brought in. Order several small plates and a carafe of the house white rather than a main course. Better value than the smarter-looking places on the strip.