Strefi is Exarchia's own hill — a pine-covered outcrop rising straight out of the apartment blocks, laced with paths and stone terraces and topped by views across the rooftops to Lycabettus and the Acropolis. Long a slightly rough-edged local hangout, it has been steadily renovated, with open-air seating and the odd café.
It is the obvious place to climb for sunset if you are staying in the neighbourhood. Go up while there is still light.